Collars for shirts



B. LIGHT COLLARS FOR SHIRTS July 3, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed June 5,1959 i I Ii July 3, 1962 Filed June 5, 1959 B. LIGHT 3,041,626

COLLARS FOR SHIRTS 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 i 15- I5\ #3 5 fa -'2 5 3 s nnzsCGLLARS non snnars Bert Light, 4 Bath St, City Road, London EC. 1,England Filed done 5, 1959, Ser. No. 818,341 Claims priority,application Great Britain Jan. 16, 1959 2 Claims. (Cl. 2-131) Thisinvention relates to collars for shirts and is applicable to suchcollars whether detachably or permanently fastened to the body of ashirt. More particularly, the invention is concerned with the provisionof a shirt collar of the kind having face and back plies each formed inone piece and each including a neckband portion and a cape or turn downportion.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an improved collarof the kind set forth which involves fewer processes in its manufacturethan has been the case with collars previously proposed and which isconstrained to set itself when in a position of wear so as to beirnmaculate and pleasing in appearance and so as to provide opcomfort.

The present invention includes an interlining suitable for a shirtcollar of the kind having face and back plies each formed in one pieceand each including a neckband portion and a cape or turn down portion,comprising a first section adapted to be located wholly within andshaped in a manner complementary with the neclcband portion of thecollar, said first section being formed with an edge adapted to bedisposed adjacent but not lying the cape portion of the collar and toestablish the fold line of the collar and a second section adapted to belocated mainly within and shaped in a manner complementary with the capeportion of the collar, the second section including a part whichoverlaps said edge of the first section and is secured along the lengththereof to a side of the first section adapted for disposition inopposed relationship to the face ply of the collar.

The invention also includes a shirt collar comprising face and backplies each formed in one piece and each including a neckband portion anda cape or turn down portion and an interlining disposed between the faceand back plies and comprising a first section located wholly between andshaped in a manner complementary with the neckband portions respectivelyof the face and back plies, the first section having an edge disposedadjacent but not lying within the respective cape portions of the faceand back plies and establishing the fold line of the collar, and asecond section located mainly between and shaped in a mannercomplementary with the cape portions respectively of the face and backplies and including apart which overlaps said edge of the first sectionand is secured along the length thereof to a side of the first sectiondisposed in opposed relationship with the face ply of the collar.

1 define the term neckband portion as meaning that part of a collarwhich is disposed on a lower side of an imaginary curved line joiningthe inner or lower ends of the side edges of the cape portion of thecollar whilst by the term cape portion 1 mean that part of the collarlying on the side of the said imaginary line opposite the neckbandportion.

It will be appreciated that the overlapped portions of the neckband andcape portions of the interlining are disposed wholly with-in theneckband portion of the collar and in this way the entire cape portionof the collar can be folded down on the neckband portion. Thus thecollar is predisposed to fold along a line, namely the said imaginaryline, which terminates at opposite ends thereof at the inner or lowerends of the side edges of the cape portion of the collar. The imaginaryline referred to is the line about which the cape would tend to turn inthe s nszs Patented July 3, 1962 "the absence of any interlining and theprovision of an interlining according to this invention ensures that thecape portion will fold along the said imaginary line.

In accordance with one feature of the invention, the first section ofthe interlining includes extremities which extend outwardly beyondrespective end edges of the sec-' ond section and each end edge of thesecond section includes a part which is inclined inwardly with respectto the first section and away from the corresponding extremity thereofand extends to the edge of the second section which overlaps the firstsection. By virtue of this construction folding of the second sectionabout the overlapped edge of the first section of the interlining cantake place without causing folding of the extremities of the firstsection which extend outwardly beyond the end edges of the secondsection of the interlining.

According to another feature of the invention, the first section of theinterlining is formed in any suitable known manner so as to be capableof being adhesively bonded to either or both of the face and back pliesof the collar. Thus in the finished collar the first section of theinterlining is bonded to the neclcband portion of one or both of theface and back plies whilst the part of the second section of theinterlining which overlaps the first section is bonded to the firstsection. In this way support is provided for the edge of the firstsection of the interlining adjacent the cape portions of the face andback plies and the collar is thus predisposed to fold along the saidedge of the first section of the interliningand rubbing of the said edgeof the first section against the face ply of the collar is prevented.

In yet another feature of the invention the neckband or first section ofthe interlining is formed from a stifier or heavier weight cloth thanthe second section thereof. Such a construction again renders thefinished collar more readily predisposed to fold along the line providedby the said edge of the first section of the interlining.

The invention will nowbe described, by way of example, with reference tothe accompanying, somewhat diagrammatic drawings, in which:

FIGURE 1 is a plan view of an interlining for a collar in accordancewith the invention, the surface of the interlining which in the finishedcollar is opposed to the face ply of the collar being uppermost;

FIGURE 2 illustrates in plan View the interlining of FIGURE 1 disposedupon superposed front and back plies of the collar, the surface of theinterlining shown I in FIGURE 1 being here disposed in contact with theface ply of the collar;

FIGURE 3 illustrates the collar shown in FIGURE 2 after turning andfinal marginal stitching;

FIGURE 4 is a sectional view taken through FIGURE 1 on a line transverseto the length of the collar and midway between the ends thereof;

FIGURE 5 is a similar sectional view taken through FIGURE 2; Y

FIGURE'6 is a similar sectional view taken, through FIGURE 3; and

FIGURE 7 is a plan view of the neckband interlining section.

Referring tothe drawings, an interliningfor a shirt collar, generallyindicated by the reference numeral 1,

includes a first section 2 which is adapted to be located wholly withinand is shaped in a manner complementary I with a neckband portion 3 (seeFIGURE 3) of the finished collar. The first section 2 of the interliningcomprises a central bowed portion 4 formed in one with extremities orend parts '5 which extend lengthwise with 'respect to and fromrespective opposite ends of the central bowed portion 4. These end partsare adapted to engage within complementary partsfi of the finished col-"lar which respectively are provided, in known manner,

with a button (not shown) and a buttonhole 7 for fastenl ing the collar.7 7 The interlining 1 also includes a second section 8 which is adaptedto be located mainly within and is shaped ina manner complementary witha cape portion 9 of the finished collar. This section 8 of theinterlining includes a part 10 which overlaps the central bowed portion4 of the first section 2 of the interlining at a side of the firstsection 2 which in the finished collar is opposed to a face ply of thecollar.

of the interlining is provided a line of stitching 11 which extendsparallel with the overlapped edge of the first section 2 of theinterlining and'secures together the interlining sections 2 and 8.

The upper edge 12 of the first section 2 of the interlining which isoverlapped by the part 10 of the second section 8 of theinterliningdetermines the fold line of the collar and, so that thefinished collar will be predis- In the overlapped portions of the firstsection 2 and second section 8 posed to fold: along the upper edge 12 ofthe interlining 7 section 2, this latter section may, if desired, beformed of stitfer or heavier Weightcloth than the second section 8 ofthe interliningjso as to provide support for the overlapped edge 12 ofthe first interlining section 2; A1 ternatively, the surface 13 of thefirst section 2 of the manner as to be capable of being adhesivelybonded to the face-ply. With such an arrangement, the part 10 ofthe/second section 8 of the interlining which overlapsinterlining whichin the finished collar is opposed to the .face ply of the collarrmay beso formed in any known the first section thereof is permanently securedbetween a the first section 2 and the face ply and, thereby, support isalforded for the overlapped edge 12 of the first'section 2 of theinterlining and the finished collar is thus predisposed to fold aboutthe edge 12; It will be appreciated also that since the first section ofthe interlining is over,-

is opposed to the face ply of the collar, rubbing of the 'face' ply ofthe collar against the overlapped edge of-the first section of theinterlining will not take place and the liability of the collar to wearout 'along the fold line thereof'is; reduced. I

So as further to ensure that the finished collar Wlll -be predisposed tofold along the 'overlappededge 12 of ""contiguity. With this arrangementthe cape or second section 8 of the'interlining can fold over theoverlapped edge of the first section without being in any Way' ch- 7lapped on the side 13 thereof which in the finished collar J tioual ply.

interlining to the face ply of the collar may also be adopted and, ifdesired, the section 8 of the interlining may be bonded to the face plyof the collar in the same Way as has been described in connection withthe section 2 of the interlining. As an alternative, an additional plymay be inserted between the interlining and the face ply of the collar,the interlining section 2 and/or the interlining section 8 beingadhesively bonded to this addi- So as to incorporate in a shirt collarthe interlining 1 described above, the interling is, as shown in FIGURE2, placed upon and in register'with superposed face and back plies ofthe collar which are represented by the reference numeral 17. Each ofthe face and back plies .17 is formed in one piece to include theneckband portion 3 and cape or turn down portion 9. The surface of theinterlining i which in the finished collar is opposed to the face ply l7is disposed in contact with the face ply. The face ply, back ply andinterlining are then marginally stitched together along end edgesthereof by respective lines of stitching 18 which determine the sideedges of the cape portion of the collar and along the free edge of theinterlining section-8 remote from the section 2 by a line of stitching19flwhich determines the outer edge of the cape portion of the collar.The free edges of the neckband portions of the superposed plies and theinterlining are lefit unstitched to permit turning of the collar inknown manner.

As is apparent from FIGURE 2 ofthe drawings the lines 18 of stitchingwhich determine the position of the end edges of the cape portion of thefinished collar cross the contiguous edge-to-edge opposedcomplementarily inclined edges 14 and 15 of the sections 2 and 8 of theinterlining at respective locations outwardly spaced from the ends ofthe edge 12 of the neckband interlining sec, tion 2, whichedgedetermines'the location of the fold line of the finished collar. It will'also'be apparent that the line of stitching 18 has an apex 13' at thepoint where said line of stitching crosses the contiguous opposing edges14 and 15 of the interlining sections; that is, the line of stitchingld'has a portion which extends substantially straight outwardly parallelto the adjacent end edge 16 of the interlining section 8 and anotherportion which extends at an abrupt angle to the outwardly extendingportion, substantially parallel to the upper edge of the neckbandportion at its end portions 5, and the junction '18 of these twoportions of the line of stitching structed by or causing obstruction ofthe first section of the interlining. I

The opposed inwardly inclined edge parts 14.and 15 respectively of thesections 2 and 8 of the interlining provide a positive and accuratemeans whereby the sec- I tions 2 and Sean be aligned and registeredprior tothe securing together'of the sections Zand 8 by the line ofstitching 11. I V I For obtaining adhesion between the first section ofthe interlining and the face ply of the collar, the first section of theinterlining may be formed in known manner from material incorporatingcellulose derivative threads which are treated with appropriate solventand secured to the face ply under heatand pressure. Alternatively, thesurface 1'3"ofthe'first' section of the interlining maybe coatedin'known' manner with a thermoplastic adhesive and secured (to-the faceply by heat and pressure. Other known processes for effecting adhesivebonding of the 18 is on the contiguous opposed edges 14 and 15 of theinterlining sections. The locations of these apices 18' in the lines ofstitching 18 determine the inner ends of the side edges of the capeportion of the finished collar, and the distance between these points orapices 18' and the adjacent end of the edge 12 allows, at the front ofthefinishedarid folded collar, just sulficient accommodation for thedouble thickness of the back ply of the collar as will permit the foldline of the collar to extend exactly from the inner ends of the sideedges of the cape portion of the collar. This insures that the front ofthe finished and folded'collar will reside as low as possible on theneck of the wearer of the collar, thereby providing optimum comfort, andalso insures that no forces are exerted on the cape portion which wouldcause the points of the collar tofiare away from the body ofthe wearer.

After the'marginal stitching together of'the plies 17 and theinterlining 1, the collar is trimmed by removing surplus cloth 20 of thesuperposed plies 17 at thepoints of the collar and surplus clothenclosed by the broken lines 21 at the junction at each end of thecollar between the cape and neckband sections thereof. Such trimmingfacilitates turning of the collar. l The contiguous opposed inwardlyinclined edges 14 and 15 of the interlining sections also facilitateturning of the collar inasmuch asthey provide acut in the interliningply l'outwardly'of each line of stitching 18-which cut is directedtowards the apex 18' of the stitching line 18 which determines the innerend of the side edge of the cape portion of the finished collar. Thuswhen the collar is turned the interlining material outwardly of each ofthe stitching lines '18 can give way right up to the apex 18' of thestitching line.

Subsequent to trimming, the collar is turned and marginally stitchedalong its end edges and the free edge of the cape portion 9 of thecollar by a line of stitching 22. If desired, a line of throughstitching 23 is provided which secures together the face and back pliesand the overlapped parts of the first and second sections of theinterlining, the overlapped parts being wholly disposed within theneckband portion of the collar.

If the collar is of the kind where the first section and/ or the secondsection is adhesively bonded under heat and pressure to the face and, itmay be, back plies of the collar, the collar may now be subjected toheat and pressure to eifect such bonding whereupon the collar is readyfor attachment to the body of the shirt.

Those skilled in the art will appreciate that the interlining of thecollar as described above results in the provision of a one-piece collarhaving the extremities of its fold line coinciding with the respectiveinner ends of the side edges of the cape portion ofthe collar. *Thisfeature, which ensures that in use no forces are exerted in the cape ofthe collar which tend to make the collar points flare away from the bodyof the wearer of the collar, is brought about by the unique shape of theneckband section 2 of the interlining according to which the ends of theedge -12 are disposed in the finished collar a suificient distancewithin the neckband portion of the collar as will allow, when the collaris folded, just sufficient accommodation for the double thickness of theback ply of the collar to permit each of the ends of the fold line ofthe collar to terminate at the inner ends of the side edges of the capeportion of the collar. Further, as the ends of the fold line of thecollar each terminate at the inner end of a side edge of the capeportion of the collar, the front of the collar will reside as low aspossible on the neck of the wearer ensuring optimum comfort andsmartness of appearance.

Those skilled in the art will also appreciate that the underlining ofthe collar as described above provides a means whereby collars of thekind described can be manufactured in a simplified and quicker mannersince the interlining 1 comprises only two sections 2 and 8 which aresecured together, suitably, by the line of stitching 11 and suchsecuring together of the sections 2 and 8 does not involve any foldingof these sections along the line where they are secured together. Thus,a simple sewing machine without complex folding attachments can beemployed in order to prefabricate the interlining 1. It has been foundthat a collar manufactured in accordance with the present invention canbe made in approximately 25 percent less time than collars made bysimilar methods known hitherto.

What I claim is:

l. A shirt collar comprising: a face ply formed in one piece and havinga lower neckband portion and an upper cape portion adapted to be turneddown over the neckband portion along a fold line which extends along thejunction of the neckband and cape portions; a back ply formed in onepiece in substantial correspondence with the face ply and secured to theface ply in register therewith; a neckband interlining section fiatwiseconfined be- 5 tween the neckband portion of the face and back plies andshaped in substantial. correspondence thereto, the upper edge of theneckband interlining section being recessed to give the same anelongated medial portion and a pair of diverging end portions whichextend obliquely outwardly from the ends of the medial portion; a capeinterlining section intermediate the face and back plies shaped insubstantial correspondence with the cape portion of the face and backplies and disposed mainly within the cape portions of said plies, buthaving a lower 15 marginal edge portion which extends beyond the loweredge of the cape portions of said plies and between the neckbandportions thereof; the edge of said lower marginal edge portion of thecape interlining section having an elongated medial portion whichcorresponds in shape to the elongated medial portion of the upper edgeof the neckband interlining section, and diverging end portions whichextend obliquely from the ends of the elongated medial edge portion, thelower marginal edge portion of the cape interlining section overlappingthe upper marginal edge portion of the neckband interlining section toan extent which disposes the oblique edge portions at the ends of thetwo interlining sections in edge-to-edge contiguity; and means securingthe overlapping marginal edge portions of the interlining sections toone another, the edge-to-edge contiguity of the oblique edge portionslocating the two interlining sections in proper relationship to oneanother prior to securement of said sections together, and preventinginterference between the interlining sections when the collar is foldedalong said fold line. 2. The collar of claim 1, further characterized bya line of stitching extending along each end edge of the cape portionand along the upper edge of the adjacent part of the neckband portionwhich projects beyond the end of the cape portion, said lines ofstitching defining boundairies of the collar, and each of said lines ofstitching having an abrupt angle therein, the apex of which lies on thecontiguous edge-to-edge obliquely extending edge portionsiof theinterlining sections.

5 References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS1,637,540 Sukrow Aug. 2, 1927 1,803,765 Mueller et a1 May 5, 19311,897,486 McCreery Feb. 14, 1933 2,033,680 Campbell Mar. 10, 19362,081,136 Di Iuglio May 25, 1937 2,118,407 Liebowitz May 24, 19382,197,134 Rubinstein Apr. 16, 1940 5 2,304,275 Panettieri Dec. 8, 19422,435,509 Pfetfer et al. Feb. 3, 1948 2,470,950 Pfeifer May 24, 1949FOREIGN PATENTS 152,087 Australia June 29, 1953 794,588 Great BritainMay 7, 1958

